Another hot day in Provincetown

We all slept in today getting up at around 08:00 hrs when Brec started the engine to charge the batteries. Brec then told us that we were all going ashore to shower and have breakfast at thePost Office Café. When the batteries were charged we called the water taxi and headed off to the showers. Refreshed we then went to the Post Office Café where we managed to get an outside table. The day was sunny without a cloud in the sky and was already warm, it would get hot later. 

Alan and Brec both had the Cafe’s classic eggs Benedict with Canadian Bacon, which to us bears looked more like ham, on an English Muffin which was too hard for our BBF to cut with the knife you see there, so he demanded a sharper one. Both men were brought a steak knife which worked better.

Breakfast was enjoyed and the humans chatted about the up coming voyage to Nova Scotia. Coffees were refilled, but then the waiter insisted on being paid as we had finished and they needed the table!! So they paid and left. Sandy went to the Pharmacy to get stuff while we Bears and the males went to the town jetty to look at the Victoria, Magellan’s ship that actually completed the circumnavigation.

Sadly when we got there the ship had departed. This picture above was taken when we came in and we all thought it might be one of Columbus’s ships, either the Nina, Pinta or Santa Maria. Magellan’s Ship the Victoria was the only ship of his fleet to return with 18 out of 237 sailors and Magellan as we all know was not one of them.

Our BBF now had a nervous bowel and need to find a Heads as quickly as possible. The one on the jetty only had one stall and two men were waiting so he trotted on back to the marina where he just made it, but then found there was no toilet paper. Brec in the meantime had followed him and got some paper from the stall next door. If you have ever been to the USA you will know that the toilets are not enclosed but open at ankle level and the walls end just above head height. Our BBF left the toilet to find Brec sitting  on the terrace, but then had to dash back again to the toilet. This time Brec got one of the marina staff to get a new complete toilet roll which they passed over the door! 

It was relatively safe now for our BBF to walk into town again while Brec returned to the boat. It being the Labor Day holiday there were many people about. We saw quite a fair number of young and older men holding hands.

We walked back to the town jetty were our BBF asked the Atlantic Research and Conservancy what the chances were of sighting Whales.

The chances of seeing whales once we pass Race Point were going to be good we were told. 

We returned to the boat and Alan made some lunch for all on board. Sandy was not back yet. When Sandy returned she gave our BBF an early birthday present.

Our BBF was pleased with the complement and the tea towel and gave her a hug for it. 

Brec as we write is working hard doing the last minute things necessary for a safe voyage at sea. He has made out watch lists and has gathered the life jackets together and is now beginning to check on charts and the route we will follow. Tonight the humans are going out for a last meal ashore. We leave tomorrow morning Tuesday early and will be out of touch with our readers until at least Friday. Happy Sailing!

The kindness of a stranger!

In the night our BBF got up to look at the stars, but the waning moon still chases them away. Ashore the town was clearly throbbing and people were partying.

He got up again at dawn, but went back to bed, the skipper after all had said no move before 07:00 hrs!

At 07:00 hrs he cleared away his bed, dressed and started the breakfast. He made pancakes as promised with real coffee and all agreed that it was good.

Sandy remarked having Alan on board was like having your own personal Chef! After the humans were sated they sat and chatted and told stories for a bit.

Brec than wrote out two shopping lists one which he would get and one for Alan and Sandy to get.  Brec was going to get boat stuff and Alan and Sandy groceries.

The day promised to be a hot one. On shore Sandy and Alan went one way Brec another. Our pair wandered around the town enjoying the holiday atmosphere and going in and out of the many shops. As the nights at sea the further North we go get colder he succumbed to buying an extra warm hoody with a soft fleece lining. He said he would wear it on the night watches under his oilskin jacket. Sandy bought herself a shirt, a sweatshirt jacket and some Flipflops.

They now needed a cold drink and something to eat as it was getting really hot. They found a suitable place and each had a glass of cold water and a nice Belgian Isotonic drink. Alan ordered a Lobster Bisque and Sandy a salad. Each left the other a little to taste. 

Suitabley refreshed they got underway to find the ShopRite supermarket. It ended up being a long walk in the heat of the sun. They passed the monument to the Pilgrims from the Mayflower who signed the Mayflower Compact which created laws for the Mayflower Pilgrims and non-Pilgrims for the good of the colony.

They walked on another quarter of a mile and when they had to cross the road a female motorcyclist stopped to let them cross. When she revved up to get going the motorcycle was quite noisy as some Harleys are. A handsome man near our human remarked that she was noisier than his ex wife! Sandy laughed and asked the man if he knew where the supermarket was. We now learnt that it was in the other direction at least a mile back!!! The man introduced himself as Steve, that he was originally from the Netherlands, still had that nationality as well as the USA one. He had been a Lieutenant in the State Troopers had served in the National  Guard and went to Kuwait, was gay and had two children from a surrogate mother. He then added if they followed him home, which was not far he would take Sandy and Alan in his car to the supermarket. That was an offer they could not refuse.

At his house he went and got the key to his car, then drove our pair to the supermarket. On the way he explained  that his husband was a Drag Queen and had won the contest to the Drag Queen of the USA, had won $200,000 and a BMW car!

When they arrived at the supermarket he gave Sandy his mobile telephone number and said when we were ready to phone him and he would take us to the town marina.

Sandy and Alan bought all on the list and then some, but there was no bacon to be had! ! When they got to the checkout Steve was there to say he had remained and checked his emails. Outside Steve drove his car up they loaded the stores on and were off. 

At the entrance to the large jetty, which is also a car park the sign said full, but Steve told the attendant he was only dropping us off and drove all the way to the Marina gate. Using Steve's phone they found someone to take their picture and then our pair went down to the water taxi. 

As they got to OTTER our BBF realised he had left his bag with iPad in Steve's car! He asked Sandy to text him and stayed in the water taxi to go back to the jetty. Steve was there with Alan's bag and he breathed a sigh of relief. Such generosity from a stranger. Steve remarked that there were only two things that he had to do, die and pay taxes the rest of what he did was free choice.

Brec alone on the boat had done quite a bit of work and preparation for our voyage. He now went ashore to shower and have a walk around town. Alan said he would have supper ready at 18:30hrs. Alan prepared the meal  and then found  that Brec had turned the main shut off to the cooker so hard off, that he could not turn it back on. Sandy tried and failed too. Alan texted Brec who was on his way back anyway. Brec turned the fuel on and Alan started cooking.

Even Alan agreed it was a good meal which all enjoyed while telling stories of their day’s activity. Brec washed up and cleared away and so ended another good day on OTTER!

 

It’s Colder Now

We were up at the crack of dawn to get through the Cape Cod Canal with the favourable current. It was cold so Brec made our BBF and himself a hot chocolate. Then with Alan on the helm he hauled up the anchor. This is undoubtedly Brec’s morning exercise as he hauls it up by hand and only uses the windlass when it wont come up.

Alan followed the buoys back out to the Canal then turned into it. Quite a few small boats were about with men fishing in them. Then once we were in the canal the banks were lined on both sides with men fishing every 100 metres! We saw one man successfully land a large Bass, but that was the only one.

This is the view of the lifting railway bridge after we had gone under it with the moon above it.  It was bitterly cold and so our BBF put on more clothes.

The canal is about eight nautical miles long is with a favourable current of 3knts we went through fast. Once out the other side into Cape Cod Bay Brec hoisted the Genoa, but as the wind was light from behind we kept the motor on. Later in the day when the wind and the course allowed he hoisted the main as well and polled the Genoa out on the other side so we sailed wing on wing and were able to turn the motor off!

Bliss perfect bliss. No engine noise, sailing along nicely and the sun is shining.

After 6 hours sailing we arrive in Provincetown. Brec hauled all the sail down and we motored slowly into the marina to get fuel and water.

We asked for them to give us a mooring for three nights, which they did. Alan then made lunch. After lunch Sandy and our BBF took the laundry and their shower kit ashore via water taxi while Brec put the boat to bed.

When they had showered they sat in the sun and looked at their mobile phones. Brec came and showered and we Bears published the last three days of Blogs, but made a mistake in the order of publishing. We got Alan to tell everyone of our mistake. The humans then went into town.

Brec had the bit between his teeth and wanted to have a beer at the bar he had frequented when he worked here in the 60’s. In the old days the bar was called the Forecastle but now it is called the Old Colony Tap!

It was a low ceiling bar, dark and loud with cracked tables. Brec had his beer while Sandy and our BBF had a G+T. Satisfied we now followed Brec around town while he told us some of the history and of his time here in the 60’s. It is now a holiday town, in the 60’s it was a fishermen’s town. The folks walking the streets were very colourful to say the least. Brec explained that it had become not just a Hippy place but one for gays!

The humans bought some beer then went back to the boat so that Alan could cook the evening meal. He said it wasn’t cooking really as he had made the bolognese and froze it before coming, so it was boiling water for pasta and warming up the bolognese. It was all washed down with red wine. Then as these humans seem to do they sit looking at their mobile phone screens before going to bed. Brec said, no move before 07:00hrs. Alan promised us all pancakes and real coffee for breakfast. The humans were asleep as soon as their heads hit the pillows.

On to Onset.

Our BBF got up a couple of times in the night to look at the stars. The moon always scares them away, but the night sky was cloudless and a few did their best to shine through, Orion’s Belt was easily visible. During the night the wind blew hard for a bit, but we were all snug so slept on. This morning Brec started the engine at 08:45hrs to charge the batteries which woke us all up. He then listend to the shipping forecast while our BBF cleared away his bed and made a cup of tea.  The men then discussed the possibility of moving on today. As the winds were light Brec was hopeful that they could make Onset Bay today. Our BBF had wanted to go ashore to get proper Wifi so we could send our Blog, but when it was agreed that they should attempt the passage he stayed on board, made a potato salad and egg salad sandwiches for lunch. At one stage Brec helped peel the hard boiled eggs and discovered that we had fresh eggs after all!

We set off around 11:30hrs and the going was fine. The wind was on the nose but the engine and boat made reasonable headway against it and the adverse current. There were hardly any clouds to be seen, just a few fluffy white ones on the horizon to the North of us. Sandy sat and read, Alan kept watch, the Autopilot steered and Brec Navigated and did the many necessary boat jobs. He is a fine seaman and we all feel safe in his lovely little yacht. Sandy near the end of the day remarked that Alan was a stalwart seaman. Well we don’t know about that, we only know that he and Brec are very similar and both have confidence in each others sailing ability, otherwise we wouldn’t be here.

When we arrived at the entrance to the channel leading to the Cape Cod Canal our BBF turned off the Autopilot and hand steered all the way to the anchorage where we now are. Brec put the hook down and after they had made sure it had held the engine was turned of and our BBF went  below to prep and cook the evening meal. The Skipper (Brec) broke out the anchor beers and a toast was given to a successful day.

The meal was enjoyed by all and after Brec had cleared away the humans sat looking at their mobile phones and there was silence on the boat.

Cuttyhunk Island

We Bears of little brain forgot to mention yesterday that Brec and Alan had sighted dolphins as we came out of Wicopesset Passage and before the Fog came. The two circumnavigators were thrilled as they have many happy memories of their visits on the ocean. Brec said it was the first time he had seen dolphins at all in Long Island Sound! 

This morning Wednesday 30 August we were up early again to set off. Brec started the motor and let got the mooring and motored us out of the Great Salt Pond. Our BBF joined him once he had packed away his bed and got dressed. Then with out BBF as Helmsman on watch we continued our voyage eastwards. Rounding the end of Block Island we were now out of Long Island Sound and into the Atlantic proper and we felt it with the big Atlantic rollers sweeping from right to left under the boat. This made it all somewhat rolly, so Sandy wedged herself in her bunk so she didn’t roll about and slept on, or tried to. 

The sun was behind the grey clouds and then the fog came down again shortening the view to a little under half a nautical mile. We saw no other boats, but did hear the deep rumble of an engine of probably the Block Island Ferry going by in the mist.

The men had breakfast and chatted amiably about sailing and this and that. Brec concentrated in between on the navigation, while Alan kept watch and the autopilot steered, rather squeakily we thought. At first the day was grey and cold then it tried to rain so oilskins were called for. When it stopped it was warm so oilskins came off and so the day continued. 

The wind was not that strong and came from the southwest. The engine stayed on, Brec raised the Staysail which gave a bit of lift and dampened the roll a bit. Later he rolled out the Genoa and put the spinnaker pole on the end so that when we rolled it didn’t collapse. This also gave us a lift which helped push us on and once the current against us stopped we managed to do at least 6 knots. 

We were hoping to see the Buzzards Bay light tower which was our waypoint, but in the fog failed to see it, though we passed it at a little under half a nautical mile! When the fog lifted we did see it dead astern about a mile away. Gradually land came into sight and now in the lea of the Elizabeth Island chain  we no longer had the big Atlantic swell to deal with.  The buoys marking rocks close to the entrance of Cuttyhunk were rounded and then it was just a matter of picking up a mooring which we easily did.

Our BBF went immediately below and made BLTs for lunch which all enjoyed. The sun then came out and a rainbow was sighted. Brec did a few boat chores while Alan had a nap. Brec wanted to go ashore and paint so he put the dinghy over. The harbourmaster stopped by and the mooring fees were paid and then Brec set off or tried to! He has a new outboard engine and so it needs getting used to. After starting and letting go the painter it stopped and so Brec drifted a bit downwind until he got it started again. Alan and Sandy are left on board with us and Alan will be making the evening meal for all. 

When he returned he showed us the painting he had made.

There was a nice sunset which seemed like a good omen to us all so we retired to bed, to sleep perchance to dream of home!

Wind stopped play!

Thursday (31 August 2023) morning our BBF was up first. He had got up twice in the night to look at the stars, but the Blue Moon had chased them away! He put the kettle on for tea and Brec emerged so the two men had breakfast and discussed the plan for this day. It had blown hard out of the North most of the night and was blowing hard now. Since we wanted to go North too it looked as if we would have a wet bumpy ride under engine for more than 6 hours. None of us on board fancied that. Could we sail to some place else on the mainland coast or the islands comfortably and use that as a jumping off point? Part of the problem was the fact that this wind would still be blowing out of the North on Friday! It was a beautiful day too, nice and sunny and really hot out of the wind. Consequently the men, hardened sailors that they are, felt a certain pressure to keep going. A plan developed to sail for New Bedford and wait there. When Brec went on deck to start getting the boat ready for sea, the dinghy had to be brought up on deck and deflated, for example, he stood in the cockpit for a bit clearly undecided. Alan went up on deck and they both agreed that prudence was the art of survival and that they should remain here in Cuttyhunk! Some years ago, Brec and Sandy were stuck here in a Hurricane! They were able to moor the boat against pilings in the harbour and were given a place to sleep ashore in the Fishing Club with a few others who were caught out here. Brec took all the sails and stuff off the deck and placed them below, so that the boat had less windage. They survived that and we would all survive this.

Sandy emerged, the men put the outboard engine on the dinghy ready to go ashore. Sandy did not really want to go as it was blowing hard, but our BBF persuaded her to go with them. They left us aboard and motored slowly to the dock where other yachties left their dinghies. The all used the Public loos there, but sadly there were no showers. The sun shone and all seemed right with the world. 

They walked, we’d like to say into town, but really this place is just a collection of houses, there is no town as such. They found the Cuttyhunk Market which was in a house set back behind another. Here they were able to get some sandwiches and coffee for a picnic lunch. Sandy had to fill in a form to get them and there was a wait to get them freshly made. The men had Tuna Salad and Sandy had Chicken Salad, Alan had a coffee and Brec a tea, Sandy a cold drink. Our BBF found some post cards and bought a couple to send home. He then went next door to the Post Office to buy stamps for them. He found now that the Postmaster could not change a $100 bill so had to owe the man 50 cents! He went back to Sandy who kindly gave him the money.

The humans now walked up to the top of the hill where Brec had done his lovely little sketch yesterday. There were park benches here so they sat and enjoyed the view and their picnic. The could see for miles which after a couple of foggy days was marvellous. 

They discussed the weather and all agreed it was a good decision to stay here.

Walking back down the hill they came across some boxes of stuff for people to take for free. Brec and Sandy chose some small photograph frames while Alan found a pair of brand new extendable forks for grilling S’mores which he couldn’t resist.

They then went to the local Historical Museum which had an interesting collection of paintings. Alan was amused by the Cuttyhunk song which stated;

Down in good old Cuttyhunk

Where many a billow curls

The Light House  Service tends the buoys

And the Coast Guard tends the girls.

At the cross roads was a house set back which looked like a store so Sandy and Alan explored it. He bought a couple of items and then when they got back to the harbour Brec was there with blocks of ice for the cool box on the boat. There were also other houses that seemed picturesque.

The journey back to OTTER was now up wind and there was a bit of a chop in the harbour. Although Brec did his best steering the dinghy, spray came over the top wetting Sandy and Alan. Sandy shrieked each time this happened which the men found amusing! A bit wet but safe and sound they got back on board. 

There had been a notice on the Harbourmasters Shack about access to WIFI, but it was impossible to use if on board. Later Alan asked the Harbourmaster, when he came for the mooring fees, about it. He remarked that it didn’t extend out to the moorings, but Alan was welcome to sit on the dockside and use it there. 

Brec once he had sorted out the cool box and put the blocks of ice in went  ashore again to paint. Alan had a nap and Sandy sat in the cockpit out of the wind soaking up the sun and reading.

Our BBF prepared and cooked the evening meal. When Brec returned he brought with him a pot lid he had found at another place offering free stuff. The large pot on board did not have one so it was very prophetic we all thought. He also had done another lovely painting in his sketch book.

Everyone enjoyed the meal and as Alan had bought some funny shot glasses which said on them, “Let’s get ship face!” They all had couple of glasses of port and dud just that after the meal.

There was a nice sunset which makes us all hopeful for tomorrow.