Farewell to Friends.

The last day in Santiago was quite a sad affair as it was combined with lots of farewells. It started with us saying goodbye to Pat and Dan. As a leaving gift, our BBF gave Pat a Superwoman doll in the superhero pose to much acclaim. On her blog www.patanddanmakingtracks.com Pat has written about it and calls her doll "Karma Too" which we think is most appropriate. 

Lisa being more artistic and thoughtful presented them with a lovely picture of the three of them, inscribed with the words, "No distance is too great with a friend by your side!" This brought a tear to all our eyes.

Alan then went off to try and post his parcel of unwanted things, but the Spanish Post Office computer in all Spain was down and so could not. He left the parcel there saying he would be back around the 6 June when hopefully the computers would be working again.

In the early evening he met outside the cathedral with John and Suzanne, from Oregon and Simon and Millie from Australia. We were now here to perform the exchange of rings between Alan and Simon. We went into the cathedral and Alan found an empty chapel in which they could sit to pray and do the exchange. Millie performed the exchange putting the rings on their fingers. Then Simon replaced Millie's ring on to her wedding ring finger! 

Drinks were needed to celebrate  and so they all went off to the best Tapas bar in town. John and Suzanne had brought a friend from Colorado called Debby so now we were six humans. 

After the meal the humans exchanged much from their past lives, in particular they shared the grief that each of them had known. Interestingly tears flowed from them all, not for the memory of their individual loss and grief, but more for the grief of the others. This has undoubtedly bound them even closer together now. 

Then again it was the parting of the ways for some. It was to be hoped that we would see at least John and Suzanne again in Fisterra. 

On the morning of 30 May we met Lisa outside our Albergue and after they'd adopted the superhero pose set off on the first stage of their next journey.

                 Looking back at the Cathedral in Santiago.

We have to say it is such a pleasure to be walking in the company of Lisa who is a real ray of sunshine. Consequently the distance of some 25 odd kms on the first day went quickly and without real incident.

After the entry into Santiago which was not really so nice as they were so many package pilgrims on the last 100 kms, our route now was quiet and peaceful as we walked through beautiful countryside.

To cut a long story short we stopped just twice along the way. The second day was particularly hard as we walked a little over 36 kms and then had another 30 km day to get to Fisterra.

Up on the hill we had our first glimpse  of the Atlantic Ocean.

And then we stopped at a lovely spot where we could actually see the Cape in the distance.

Our Albergue when we got there had fine sea views from our room.

Later in the evening we met with John and Suzanne and adopting the necessary superheroes pose we all walked the last few kilometres to Finis Terrae, the end of the world.

At the one kilometre mark we honoured Pat and Dan by singing the beer bottle song too.

At the end is a stone which shows we have no further to go.

Our BBF then took himself off to find a quiet spot from which he could toss the stone he had carried all the way from Hanna's grave, into the Ocean saying the appropriate prayer as he did so.

As the sun kissed the surface of the sea he sang the Pilgrim's Hymn.

Then they all took a taxi back to Fisterra and more goodbyes followed before bed.

Alan and Lisa set off early the next morning for the 30 odd kilometres to Muxia. There is only one place for stopping for coffee on the way and that is more or less halfway. Neither Lisa nor Alan were in a really good mood since the night before they had found the setting of the sun was the more perfect closure to the pilgrimage than the services in Santiago. The way though was through more lovely countryside with occasional views of the sea.

They were both exhausted when they got there. Lisa so much that she was in bed by 20:00 hrs. 

Alan went off one more time to the end of the peninsular to sing the Pilgrim's Hymn to the waves before he too found his bed and was asleep by 21:00 hrs.

                A rucksack on legs called Lisa

The next day we set off back to Fisterra and we were all in a much better mood, so much so that the humans set a cracking pace. This was undoubtedly the last straw for Alan's right knee which had had enough of walking 30 odd kilometres for four days in a row.

                 An angel of mercy trying to help and old donkey 

 Once back Alan and Lisa went into town to get a knee support and the certificate saying that they had walked to the end of the world.

That evening we had a picnick on the beach and the humans collected shells and generally relaxed. They had hoped to finish with the traditional burning of clothes, but the wind and the modern fabric conspired against them, so they found a celebratory rubbish bin instead.

This morning 4 June our humans got up a bit later then usual and went to see the sunrise from the beach and to look for more sea shells.

Our humans left only footprints along the Camino.

Once again came a parting of the Ways. A tearful last hug and we set off by ourselves for the long walk back. Lisa stood on the balcony of our Albergue in tears and wished us one last time "Buen Camino", Alan replied with " Via con Dios, Lisa!" Which we understand means, "go with God."

Our BBF can only go slow now and has said that this is the lesson for him to learn. The majority of his life is past and to enjoy what he has left he should go slow, without hectic, smelling the roses as he goes. Certainly despight the knee, we enjoyed the walk to Caminos Chans. There is no rush and we go as far or as little as we feel we are able.

                         Our last look back to Fisterra

To Alan's delight our Albergue gave him a fluffy towel, had sheets on the bed and a fluffy carpet on the floor.

We went into town to get some money once we had done all the chores, and to honour Lisa, Alan bought the makings of Pasta Carbonara and will cook a meal for himself this evening.

We are taking five days to go back to Santiago instead of the three we took getting to Fisterra. Alan said he would decide how it continues when he gets there and sees how his knee has held up along the way.

Buen Camino

Pilgrims Progress 4

U

We sometimes feel you have to be crazy to walk the Camino! It may not be a necessary attribute, but it helps when like minded pilgrims meet and journey together. Our BBF after walking most of the Camino alone, walked most of one day with Pat and Dan, a lovely couple from Canada and Lisa, their adopted Camino daughter from Würzburg. He then decided that he so enjoyed their company that he wanted to walk the rest of the way with them. Pat writes a daily blog of their journey which you can find here www.patanddanmakingtracks.com 

We rather feel that one of the reasons Alan did this was because of the emotion he had left at the Cruz de Ferro. The other was because Pat and Dan were just that little bit crazy, like he is. They sing a particular sea shanty along the way to motivate themselves, called "Barret's Privateers." Then when they passed the kilometre stones making the way, they sang a bottle on the wall song to mark the count down of the kilometres left to go to Santiago. But even before they start in the morning the ritual is to adopt the "Superhero " pose before setting off. And do you know what, they do not even feel stupid doing it! Alan said it was because one can only be truly happy in the company of friends, and he had had enough of sorrows and grief and wanted to enter Santiago on a happy note.

Walking now in a group of six (bears included) is slower than when alone, but oh so much more fun. On thelast day we knew we would be passing the 1km marker, so Alan bought and carried a bottle of beer, plus some biscuits to have with the tin of Sardines he had been carrying since St. Jean Pied de Port in France! We did say it helps to be a it crazy didn't we?

So here we are with only one kilometre to go.

The crazy humans danced a sort of jig and sang the bottle song and then drank the beer and ate sardines on toast to mark the occasion. We should also mention that along the way we had picked up another like minded soul called Kim, another lovely Chica from Germany.

Pat and Lisa had heard Alan sing the hymn "to be a Pilgrim" in the church in Portomarin and had asked if they could sing it with him. He loved this idea and so gave them a copy of the words, but Pat being a Superhero, was able to download the music as well. These two chicas had lovely voices and so it was that on the way into Santiago at the chapels they found open they sang the hymn to great acclaim from those who heard it. Alan said it was a joyous moment and one not to be forgotten. The last chapel they found was at Monte do Gozo.

We went directly to the Pilgrims' Office on our arrival and queued for some two hours to get our Compostella. In Latin Alan is called "Alanus"!

Then everyone departed to go to their various hostels, hotels and Albergues promising to meet up later for a meal.

Kim had researched a great Italian restaurant, they were all fed up with Pilgrims Menus and Lisa had said she wanted to eat pasta, but had a pizza instead!

Our first rest day since starting on 23rd April was taken up with some necessary admin as Alan's boots were beginning  to come apart at the seams. He also wanted to send back all the stuff he had carried and not needed!!!!

The gang met again at 11:00hrs to get good seats for the Pilgrim's Mass at 12:00hrs

Here we were joined by Judith, yet another nice Chica from Germany. Kim sat in front of us so missed out on the photo. 

The service was needless to say in Spanish, but we were all able to follow it more or less. During the Communion itself Alan admitted to being a bit tearful as he found it a very moving moment. Some of the others did too, so he was not alone. At the end they swung the Botafumerio which was used to get rid of the stink of the Peregrinos in the Middle Ages but now is just for show. 

We bears were a bit worried as we had heard it had been shot out of the Cathedral a number of times in the past!

Lunch was called for after this moving moment. The chicas then wanted to do shopping so Dan and Alan went for a beer, well they said they needed an isotonic drink, over which they set the world to rights.

The evening was now spent in a Tapas Bar.

Where the best Tapas we have had so far was consumed to great acclaim by all. Not cheap, but, oh so delicious. Lisa though needed chocolate.

The others much to Alan's delight wanted ice cream. Bed was at around 23:00hrs which is very late on the Camino where normally the humans are in bed by 21:00hrs!!!

Today our last day in Santiago, we had to visit the shrine of the Saint. We started early and so Alan had another tearful moment when he laid the funeral card for Hanna at the shrine. 

This is us hugging the Saint and makes the official ending of our pilgrimage.

We toured the Cathedral Museum and Pat and Alan sang the Hymn in the Cloisters.

Pat and Dan two of the nicest humans! Pat understands us bears too.

We are off to Finis Terrae and Muxia tomorrow and so we must leave you there as there is much still to do.

Buen Camino!

Pilgrim's Progress 3

Today, Monday 18th May 2015, we reached the Cruz de Ferro, at 1528 meters, in perfect weather for walking just as the sun was kissing the earth. As I approached it, a line from a Cliff Richard song suddenly went through my head, "Lord you have so many angels in heaven, why did you have to take the only one I have ever known?" and the tears began to flow!

I dropped my pack, had a short drink of water, took my hat off and stood before the cross and sang in a clear voice the whole three verses of the Pilgrims Hymn. When I got to the last line I cracked and began to weep in earnest. After a moment I grabbed the Bears and said," come on bears, we've come a long way to do this, let's do it!" I went to the foot of the cross and sat them there and then placed the  stone from Hanna's birthplace on a rock in front of them and then read aloud the necessary prayer, amending it as follows: " Lord may this stone, a symbol of my and my dear departed soul mate, Hanna's, efforts on the pilgrimage that I lay at the foot of the cross of the Saviour, one day weigh the balance in favour of our good deeds when the deeds of our lives are judged. Let it be so. Amen."

Unashamedly I wept, took a quick picture of the Bears then we sat by my pack and cried.

When I'd recovered my composure I had one last act to perform for a friend who had given me an envelope with a letter she wanted burnt somewhere on the Camino. I said that I would do it here. I found a young German pilgrim to take a photo of me while I was doing it. Quietly I prayed that what every she had wanted to unburden would be granted her, as I burnt the envelope.

Our mission accomplished we could continue and so without further ado we set off down the mountain. 

I did not feel relieved or have a religious experience, I now just felt drained and very weary. Each step seemed hard, yet the going was easy enough at this stage. Not until much later when we got to El Acebo and stopped for coffee, orange juice and a tortilla did I feel better. The route was steep in parts and so one had to take extra care not to twist an ankle or a knee. 

On the way down an Irishman "M" stopped as he passed me to shake my hand and thank me for the wonderful singing at the Cruz de Ferro. A little later a Frenchman I also knew stopped and thanked me for the very emotive singing!

For my part I was rewarded by the views of God's Earth in the warm sunshine.

                      The Roman bridge leading into Molinaseca

By the time we had got across the bridge in Molinaseca we had had enough and on the way to finding the municipal Albergue, "M" the Irishman stopped me to invite me to have a beer with him later at 18:00hrs. 

I must have looked all in when I got there, for the hospitalero carried my bag up the two flights of stairs to our bed. We were the first to arrive too.

It's been an emotionally charged day, but one that has exceeded my expectations. God's Earth is good and the people on and along the Camino, also!

Buen Camino

Two weeks according to the cuckoo.

The 14th century albergue in St Juan de Ortega

The cloisters where my washing is hanging on the left 

The dormitory 

Our bed, typical of all bunk beds along the Camino 

St Juan de Ortega 

We have been underway now for over two weeks and we have to report that all things considered we are doing well. Our BBF, Alan is holding up well. We think he still walks too fast, but then that's just us, bears of little brain!

All along the way, from the very start in St Jean Pier de Port, in France we have heard a cuckoo. The bird song too is one of the marvellous things we have heard every step of the way. There seem to be many Larks as well as many other birds we do not recognise, but their voices are marvellous and delight our every step. May be it's just because we are up early, either way we are thankful. Now we are also in the area of circaders so the air is never silent. Nor are we alone on the Camino. There are many hundreds of walkers from all nations, which is perhaps why it is so unique. The reason they are here is as diverse as the nations represented. There is though universal respect for each other as they are all doing it, each carrying his/her own burden and walking at their own pace. It is always a pleasure when we see a familiar face at the next overnight stop. Today, Thursday, 7 May, we even met two perigrinos on bicycles who had been in the same Spanish course with Alan, way back in February!

Alan likes to walk alone. He is happy to converse with pilgrims in passing, but prefers to remain silent as he journeys. So it is that when the chattering masses, as he calls them come up behind him, or he overtakes them, he does his best to keep away. It is not just the women  who seem to talk all the time either, the men do it too. Some of these conversations are not worth the breath either. A couple of German men were being very arrogant about what was necessary to walk the Camino, for example and a couple of young women were chatting for chatting sake about clothes and men. One young woman's voice was so loud that as they passed, Alan could not resist asking them to moderate the tone!

They say that it is during the third week that pilgrims experience strong emotions. Alan has done so from the start. In Roncesvalles at the pilgrim's mass when the blessing came and he was thinking about Hanna and why he was there, he experienced a feeling of such joy that he wanted to cry.  Then when we left Zubiri early in the morning he was thinking about Hanna's last days and was so saddened by the memory that he just wept for the next kilometre! Then  the feeling he had was of calm and peace. About three days ago now

he again was thinking about Hanna, but of the life and love they had shared and was overcome with saddness and loss that again he wept for quite awhile and thereafter was filled with peace and calm.

We have done our best to visit all the churches in the towns in order to pray for the family and friends who are in need of God's help and support. Alan's view is that is what we are here for and so we must make the best of it. In the monastery in St Juan de Ortega all the pilgrims after the blessing were given a cross to hang around their neck. Alan wears this outside of all his clothes as a sort of badge of office now.

This gesture is typical of the friendly nature of all the Spanish we meet along the way too. At no time have we had the feeling that they want to exploit us. When having a pilgrims meal, which are at so reasonable rates and include water and wine, the host never expects a tip. The cost of most things is reasonable and certainly cheaper than Germany. As are the hostels where we stay. Some pilgrims are so worried about finding accommodation though, that they spend much time trying to book ahead. Alan works on the basis that God will provide. 

The weather has been good to us too. We have had a couple of really cold days but now the sun is shining and the forecast looks good for more of the same. As we write we are in a small town called Hornillos del Camino. There is very little here, but our hostel is comfortable and we have made some new friends and so all is right with the world.

Buen Camino!

God is smiling on our Camino

As we write it is clear to us that God must be smiling on our journey. Firstly he is smiling because in the night of Sunday Alan woke up and decided a couple of changes to his packing plan. He decided to take his aluminium water bottle instead of his plastic one. He felt the plastic one tasted funny. Then at the last minute he decided not to take his poncho and tent making kit, which weighed 1.2 kilos but his iPad instead. Well we are benefiting from this now as he has allowed us to write the blog. 

God  is also smiling on our Camino because on Monday as we made our way to MG main station we met a giant of a man who made Alan look like a dwarf. This man asked we we were pilgrims and when Alan replied in the affirmative he explained that he was Spanish and came from Santiago!!! As we parted he wished us Buen Camino, which is the traditional greeting and more or less means have a good journey.

On the train firstly to Aachen, Alan listened to his audio book, and then on the rather smart French train to Paris dozed off quite a lot while listening to it. 

On arrival in Paris North we took a taxi to Garde de Austerlitz. As luck would have it the driver was Tangierian and so Alan was able to practice some Arabic. He admitted privately to us later that he had clearly forgotten much.

On the overnight train to Bayonne we had a German, called Gert from Saarbrücken, in the bunk under Alan and a Frenchman in the opposite bunk to Alan. Gert was also going on the Camino, but the Frenchman was just going hiking in the hills around St Jean Pied de Port.

These men didn't chat much for as soon as the train pulled out they just rolled over and went to sleep. In fact Alan didn't even notice that a fourth gentleman came and used the last bunk under the Frenchman in the night. This man had left by the time Alan surfaced to take his eye shades off and his earplugs out!

The train was now delayed a bit so Alan and Gert chatted to pass the time. The sun was out and there was not a cloud in the sky. Through the train window we could see in the distance snow topped mountains and began to wonder if the Pyrennees will also be snow capped. 

At Bayonne we had a couple of hours to wait for a bus to take us the rest of the way. Now we saw quite a few other pilgrims from various nations, Canada, Malaysia and France to name just the obvious ones.

The parting of the ways came at the station in St Jean. Gert was going to walk on to Orrison so needed to look for the Pilgrims office to get his pass stamped. Alan walked out of town in the opposite direction to his small and quaint pension. We have a nice large room, but must share the toilet and bathroom. Now With free WiFi Alan was quick to log on for us while he went and showered and washed his clothes. As the sun is shining still, he hung them out to dry. Shortly we think he will take a walk into the village to find a place to eat.

God is also smiling on us because the weather is so wonderful as the view from our window shows. It is forecast to stay this way too.